Loïc Prigent’s latest dive into the world of Schiaparelli captures a rare moment where the controlled divinity of the Renaissance meets the unbridled eccentricity of modern surrealism. For the Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture collection, titled "Schiaparelli! It’s Horn Couture!", designer Daniel Roseberry presents a curated selection of only 30 looks that serve as an intimate reflection on his recent visit to the Sistine Chapel. This tension between the rigid artistic mastery of Rome and a personal desire for creative liberation defines the spirit of the show, resulting in a display that is as much about the obsessive process of creation as it is about the final silhouette.

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Loic Prigent - Schiaparelli Haute Couture

The atmosphere backstage is one of magnetic intensity, where the surreal heritage of the house is pushed to its technical limits through animal replicas and lace designed to mimic organic prints. Roseberry employs a painterly approach to the garments, utilizing sfumato techniques to blur the contours of the body and trompe-l'œil effects that trick the eye into seeing impossible textures. The materials are a testament to the atelier’s decadence, ranging from delicate silk feathers and shimmering crystals to the grounded, raw beauty of real seashells.
Every piece function as a marvel of endurance and craftsmanship. The collection features a jacket that required a staggering 4,000 hours of embroidery and a gown adorned with 65,000 silk feathers, culminating in a finale wedding ensemble inspired by the sharp, regal lines of falconry. As celebrities like Demi Moore, Teyana Taylor, and Aaron Paul watched from the front row, the runway transformed into a space where the "obsessive" nature of haute couture was laid bare. It is a collection that proves Roseberry is not just designing clothes but is instead conducting a complex symphony of historical reverence and avant-garde rebellion.