Once a year, under the full moon, thousands gather along Lombok’s shores for the Bau Nyale Festival, racing to catch elusive sea worms believed to bring fortune. Rooted in the legend of Princess Mandalika, this tradition blends mythology, community, and an unlikely delicacy—Nyale worms, eaten raw, grilled, or in rich coconut soup. But just beyond these same shores lies another reality—Asia’s largest sharking port. Indonesia is the world’s top shark exporter, with over 100,000 tonnes traded annually, though illegal fishing likely pushes the real numbers even higher. While laws protect species like whale sharks and hammerheads, enforcement is weak, and the demand for shark fin soup drives a relentless hunt. Yet in Lombok, nothing goes to waste. Fins fetch a high price, but the skin, bones, and meat all serve a purpose—turned into leather, fertilizer, or food. This is a place where tradition and survival intersect, where centuries-old customs meet the modern realities of conservation and commerce.
Related article - Uphorial Sweatshirt
Andrew Fraser
