Traveling high into the mountains of the KwaZulu-Natal Province offers a glimpse into the pristine and beautiful landscapes that define the Zulu homeland. The Mark Wiens Abroad journey into this local village provides a look at a culture where visitors learn powerful customs and participate in the cooking of traditional food. Respect begins with proper greetings, such as using Sanibona for a group, and the cultural requirement to address individuals by their surnames rather than first names, as using a first name is considered a sign of disrespect. Traditional family homes maintain a historical seating arrangement where women occupy the left side and men sit on the right for protective purposes. Before the meal is served, guests participate in the ritual of drinking umcomboti, a traditional fermented corn beverage noted for its sourness and porridge-like consistency.
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The preparation of the meal is an enjoyable experience where singing is considered essential for the food to taste nice. Sustainability is also prioritized during this process, as vegetable ends are set aside to be recycled as fertilizer for the garden. The centerpiece of the feast is the seven-colored meal, which includes variety through fresh ingredients like butternut, pumpkin flowers, and imfino harvested directly from the garden. Another staple is uJeqe, a moist steamed bread made from yeast and flour that is placed near the fire to rise. Meat is typically reserved for special events, featuring beef grilled on a braai and boiled cow head meat, a dish traditionally served only to men.
To demonstrate hospitality and safety, the person who grills the meat must take the first bite to prove the food is unpoisoned and safe for guests. The entire meal is presented on a large wooden tray that functions as a communal plate and a chopping board. While adults eat together, children are often given their portions separately to ensure they do not interrupt the communal dining. On the women's side of the table, the oldest sister in the house is tasked with the responsibility of distributing the food. This hearty and natural meal concludes with the expression Ngiyabonga, a formal thanks you that marks the end of the traditional Zulu experience.
