The vibrant heart of Lagos, Nigeria, a city often characterized by its "organized chaos," provided travel expert David (of "Davidsbeenhere" social media platform) with an immersive journey into its intense food, burgeoning film industry, and complex social landscape. David's initial impression of Lagos was immediately overwhelming, noting the pervasive energy and the city's contradictions where the affluent and the poor coexist. Despite initial online reports suggesting caution, David noted he did not feel unsafe during his first day in Nigeria.
The culinary tour, described by David as the "ultimate Lagos food tour," began with university-area fast food, where he sampled Nigerian spaghetti (a thin, "micro spaghetti" sometimes served with tomato paste and sausage) and barbecue turkey wings. David, an Italian, surprisingly approved of the thin, spicy pasta, noting that it was filling and perfect for a quick university lunch. He was particularly impressed by the juicy, smoky flavor of the massive turkey wings, commenting that whatever was used for marination was "fire".
David then explored more traditional and local dishes, including okro combo, a native bean dish with rich sauce, which he likened to a lentil porridge and found to have a unique, earthy, and expressive flavor. A key aspect of Nigerian cuisine David experienced was the swallow tradition, exemplified by pounded yam or eba (made from dried and fried cassava) dipped in thick soups like okra or melon soup mixed with vegetables. These foods, often containing protein like goat meat, intestines (shaki), and forest snail, are designed to be consumed after a long day of work and are swallowed whole rather than chewed. David also tried Jollof rice, noting the rivalry between Nigeria and Ghana/Senegal over who has the best version, ultimately declaring Nigeria's superior. Later, he tried Ofada rice, an indigenous, high-fiber variety served with a green pepper and cow skin sauce, which he ultimately deemed even better than Jollof.
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As the sun set, David ventured into the city's intense nightlife, focusing on barbecue joints famous for suya (Nigerian kebab). Suya, made from various meats (ram, beef, guinea fowl) and covered in the intensely spicy yaji spice mix, was described by David as "next level" but "really spicy". To counteract the intense heat of the food, David sampled agbo, local medicinal herbs and tree barks used for health benefits, including aphrodisiac qualities and stomach cleansing (Jedi). The night also included Nigerian-made beers, such as the Black Gold Stout from the country's only indigenous brewery, and fresh palm wine.
David's exploration extended beyond food into Makoko, the largest floating slum in Africa. Home to over 200,000 people, Makoko is a community that has existed for over 100 years where children must learn to swim by age five. David learned that this community, which operates like a tight-knit family with leaders who resolve disputes, faces existential threats from government land reclamation and dredging, which is destroying the aquatic ecosystem and causing fish to disappear. David, observing the intense smoke, noted the community's strength in smoking fish. While there, David tried puff puff (sweet fried dough) sold by a vendor on a boat and found it to be super soft, crispy, and filling.
David also interacted with major figures in Nollywood, the world's second-largest film industry by volume. He met actor Maurice Sam, whose films regularly garner millions of views on YouTube, and actor/producer Baba Rex. Baba Rex, a former engineer, detailed the industry's evolution over the last 15 years, noting the shift toward higher quality, larger budgets, and better equipment. David also explored the roots of Afrobeats, noting that the movement began in Lagos with Fela Kuti, a political activist and musician.
Throughout his travels, David recognized the challenges faced by Nigerians, including high inflation which makes affording three square meals difficult for locals. He concluded that people in Lagos are constantly working hard to survive, exhibiting a "main character energy" born from the need to compete for limited opportunities. The trip left David sweating from the heat and the constant spice but enriched by the culture and hospitality of the Nigerian people.
The experience, from the micro spaghetti to the giant bush snails and the political history of Afrobeats, demonstrated for David that Lagos is a place of profound complexity, with food that is intensely expressive, much like its people. His journey painted a picture of a resilient culture where, despite immense challenges and chaos, life continues with vigor and flavor.
