"Fashion is communication with the world - it shows we are strong and can keep going," says Ukrainian designer Iryna Kokhana, who had to relocate to London when war broke out. She is currently showing her designs at Paris Fashion Week, seeing it as a chance to highlight not just her brand, but also her country's resilience. "Each of us is fighting," she tells the BBC. "It is to show the indomitability of our people, our talents, and our ability to create even during the war, when everything's just falling apart." Kokhana is founder and CEO of the label Chereshnivska, which is based in Lviv, near the Polish border.
When Russia invaded in February, she was showcasing at New York Fashion Week so wasn't in Ukraine - but her employees and family were. "My sister was sharing videos and photos of people running in the street, it was really bad," she tells the BBC. "They couldn't get any money from the banks, they were queuing at the ATM, so I was sending them money from abroad. I tried to help each person. "For the first five days, it was just about surviving. Doing simple things like getting money, tickets, finding a car to get somewhere." Kokhana's workshop in Lviv closed for a couple of months, and she decided to stay in London, where she had some contacts.
But her business is now up and running again, after some employees decided to return home. "Some people decided they couldn't stay abroad any more, they started coming back" she says. "Everyone has really different situations, but some just couldn't cope in a different country after being forced to leave." So she is running her label from the UK, having relaunched her website, changing the Ukrainian currency to sterling.
Her work, along with that of other Ukrainian designers, is being promoted by US fashion strategist Jen Sidary, who was previously head of sales at Vivienne Westwood America. "Thanks to Jen and showcasing in New York and now Paris, we get immediate attention," the designer says. They are both in the French capital, along with the other Ukrainian designers promoted by Sidary, and their excitement is palpable. "It's so amazing to be here," Kokhana says. "This is a big opportunity to show what we're doing and be around all these other brands." Some of the other designers echo this, with Oliz adding: "Being part of showroom in Paris means already the cultural victory to be heard and seen worldwide." Another designer, Frolov, says it shows the "outstanding work of our team, who created this collection in Kyiv, despite war, constant sirens and shellings".
For Sidary, it is also a chance to help Ukraine, something she "never thought" she would end up doing. In April she set up Angel For Fashion, promoting some of Ukraine's top designers, with the continued support of the USAID Competitive Economy Program. Her interest in its fashion was sparked before the war - during the Covid pandemic. "A friend of mine living and working in in Kyiv invited me to visit him and his husband. I literally wasn't working due to the pandemic, so I bought a one-way ticket to Ukraine. "My friends and family thought I had lost my mind," she laughs. But when she discovered Ukraine's fashion industry, she was hooked.
"I didn't even know, from my almost 30 years in the industry, that there was this talent lying in this country," she says. She decided to start promoting Ukrainian fashion, and then when war broke out, it became a mission for her. The quickest and most effective way to do this was to set up her website, which now has "35 of the best, most elite Ukrainian fashion brands on one platform," she says with pride. "They're pretty incredible - Ukraine's designers really embraced sustainability long before a lot of other countries. And their attention to detail is unprecedented. They can produce their collection and deliver it to you in two months or even shorter. "Working in fashion, it normally takes six months to get your goods... in Ukraine they work really hard, as we can all see from what's happening on our televisions, right?"
