When evaluating a new skin care product, ask yourself these basic questions: What skin type is it right for? What time of day should it be applied? What kind of results will you see? But have you ever wondered how exactly the formula works? There's a science behind how all these active ingredients go beyond the skin's surface level. This is called a delivery system.
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What Are the Different Types of Delivery Systems?
Chemical Delivery
“Chemical delivery systems are commonly used to enhance penetration of active ingredients,” says Dr. Marcus. Popular examples in this category include fatty acids, ethanol, and glycols. These enhancers interact with the outermost layer of the skin to increase permeability—making it easier for products to be absorbed.
Liposomes
“Liposomes are a tried-and-true delivery vehicle for active ingredients in skincare,” says Dr. Marcus. The structure is similar to a tiny bubble with the outer coating being made up of lipids. “Since lipids penetrate the skin well, this “shell” ushers active ingredients past the skin barrier, deeper into the epidermis, and then slowly releases its contents,” she explains.
Time Release and Microencapsulation
Time-released products use a variety of technologies to deliver active ingredients to the skin and slowly release them over time,” says Dr. Zeichner. A major plus is that this approach can minimize side effects or irritation. One way to accomplish the time-released benefits is through microencapsulation. Encapsulation is a major aid in stabilizing and preserving active ingredients and allows for a slower and controlled release which Dr. Marcus credits as, “more effective, gentler, and a steadier application.”
Carrier Oils
“Carrier oils are one way that essential oils can be delivered safely to the skin,” says Dr. Zeichner. “On their own, essential oils can be irritating, but the carrier oil hydrates the skin and allows for penetration of the active into the skin.” Some popular examples include jojoba oil, almond oil, and argan oil. While they all share similar properties, these can vary in terms of absorption rates, aroma, and benefits for different skin types.
Microneedle Technology
While other systems tend to work on a molecular level, microneedling takes a more physical approach. “Microneedling creates channels in the skin to allow topicals to penetrate through the outer skin layer,” Dr. Zeichner explains. Luckily, you don’t have to wait for your next facial to feel the benefits. There are an array of at-home tools that you can use to prep your skin and help maximize topical products.
