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Freedom and Flares: West Africa’s Photographic Master – In Pictures

From his studio in Benin, Rachidi Bissiriou captured the spirit and style of a seismic period in his country’s history

Untitled, 1968

In 1968, the west African photographer Rachidi Bissiriou set up Studio Plaisir in his hometown of Kétou in Benin, which he operated until its closure in 2004. Gloire Immortelle is Bissiriou’s first ever solo exhibition. It captures the spirit of a pivotal historical moment through picturing the lives and styles of those who lived it. Gloire Immortelle is at the David Hill Gallery, London until 29 July 2022. A book will be available through Stanley/Barker. All photos are courtesy of David Hill Gallery, Rachidi Bissiriou and Auto Portrait

Untitled, 1968Gloire Immortelle, is the first ever solo exhibition by West-African photographer Rachidi Bissiriou. The images offer an insight into the diversity and beauty of West-African style during the period. The show includes previously unseen portraits and coincides with The Victoria and Albert Museum’s Africa Fashion opening in July which will feature Bissiriou’s workDavid Hill Gallery, London 10 June–29 July 2022https://davidhillgallery.net/exhibitions

Untitled, 1968

Born in 1950 in the village of Kétou, Bissiriou began photographing members of his community after Benin was finally granted independence from French rule in 1960. In 1968, he opened Studio Plaisir in Kétou at the age of 18, which he operated until 2004. After its closure, Bissiriou retired from photography to breed sheep and chickens, with an unlikely stint working in local politics

 

Untitled, 1968Born in 1950 in the village of Kétou, Bissiriou began photographing members of his community after Benin was finally granted independence in 1960. In 1968, he opened Studio Pleasure in Kétou at the age of 18, which he operated until 2004. Following its closure, the now 72-year-old Bissiriou retired from photography to breed sheep and chickens, with an unlikely stint working in local politics.

Untitled, 1974

An aura of true self-expression and a newfound freedom emanates from his figures, exemplified by this image of two young men in flares paired with precision pressed shirts

 

Untitled, 1974An aura of true self-expression and a newfound freedom emanates from his figures, exemplified by this image of two young men in flares paired with precision pressed shirts

Untitled, 1974

Bissiriou inadvertently documented an intense period of seismic cultural and political shifts through his disarmingly beautiful portraits

 

Untitled, 1974Bissiriou inadvertently documented an intense period of seismic cultural and political shifts through his disarmingly beautiful portraits.
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Untitled, 1970

His innate photographic talent shines through in the delicate framing and lighting of these black and white pictures. There is something markedly contemporary about the vacant settings and the way he situates the figure within the shot

 

Untitled, 1970 Bissiriou’s innate photographic talent shines through in the delicate framing and lighting of these black and white pictures. There is something markedly contemporary about the vacant settings and the way he situates the figure within the shot.

Untitled, 1980

Working with a Yashica twin-lens medium format camera, Bissiriou produced a series of portraits depicting people in their everyday clothing – some traditional and some informal – photographed as the artist found them

 

Untitled, 1980Working with a Yashica twin-lens medium format camera, he produced a series of portraits depicting people in their everyday clothing, some traditional and some informal, photographed as the artist found them.

Untitled, 1978

At the time, cameras were largely understood as a bureaucratic tool and regarded with suspicion, thus the relaxed atmosphere Bissiriou was able to conjure is remarkable

 

Untitled, 1978At the time, cameras were largely understood as a bureaucratic tool and regarded with suspicion, thus the relaxed atmosphere Bissiriou was able to conjure is remarkable.

Untitled, 1984

The images offer an insight into the diversity and beauty of west African style during the period. A fusion of traditional attire such as grand boubou, head wraps and Ankara agbadas are brought into conversation with a burgeoning westernised youth culture

 

Untitled, 1984The images offer an insight into the diversity and beauty of West-African style during the period. A fusion of traditional attire such as grand boubou, head wraps and Ankara agbadas, are brought into conversation with a burgeoning westernised youth culture.
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Untitled, 1984

His camera often captured his subjects in a moment of quiet repose, by turns self-possessed, contemplative, and optimistic

 

Untitled, 1984His camera often captured his subjects in a moment of quiet repose, by turns self-possessed, contemplative, and optimistic.

Untitled, 1982

Bissiriou’s skill was in forging a connection with his subjects, being able to put them at ease, and allowing self-expression to shine through

 

Untitled, 1982Bissiriou’s skill was in forging a connection with his subjects, being able to put them at ease, and allowing their innate sense of self-expression to shine through.

Untitled, 1985

While traditional portraits from these times often showcased their subjects unsmiling and with a rigid formality, Bissiriou’s images are remarkable for their simplicity and a freshness that feels utterly contemporary

 

Untitled, 1985While traditional portraits from these times often showcased their subjects unsmiling and with a rigid formality, Bissiriou’s images are remarkable for their simplicity and a freshness that feels utterly contemporary.

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