The jubilant exhibition of uniqueness and diversity that was London Fashion Week was a joyous display of originality and inclusivity.
Who's going to lead the way? From Conner Ives, who had his maiden runway appearance, to Daniel Fletcher and his moving tribute to his late father, the city's young designers were on display.
1. Chopova Lowena
Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena, a design pair, experimented with suiting this season, but in their unique style. "Obviously, skirt suits felt the most Chopova Lowena," Lowena said. The brand, which is known for its pleated carabiner skirts worn by Dua Lipa, Emma Chamberlain, and Madonna, combined an unusual mix of mediaeval attire and ice hockey themes. Cartoon print knitting was one of the standout moments.
2. Richard Malone
As is expected with any Richard Malone collection, there’s a zero-waste focus this season. With the help of Mulberry and LVMH, he created a collection from deadstock fabrics, archive leather and his signature multi-circle ruched detailing, as well as pieces that can only be accurately described as wearable art. Returning customers will notice the inclusion of the Woolmark Prize winner’s go-to hues, like jade, rust and purple, and his focus on individuality. “If my clothing only appeals to five people, that’s perfectly fine with me,” says Malone. “It’s about experimentation and appreciation.
3. Conner Ives
“I wanted this collection to be a cross-section of American culture from the early ’00s, when I was growing up, to now,” explained Conner Ives on the mood for autumn/winter 2022. Homing in on his trademark Y2K Americana aesthetic, Ives put on a much-lauded display of his signature fringed scarf dresses, loose tailoring, beaded mini-skirts and low-rise jeans.
4. Grooming
Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton presented an IRL London Fashion Week celebration at Heaven after a several-season absence. Despite the fact that the two had frequented the space in the wee hours, they claim they "truly can't remember anything" about their visits. Whatever the case, their lunchtime performance was just as amazing as any Heaven night. Viviana Durante, creative director of the English National Ballet School, and her pupils came to the stage in Preen's new season creations to perform a routine choreographed by Monique Jona. The dancer's fluffy shoes toe-tapped on the grungy bricked floor, as explosive tartans, checks, lace, and stripes — inspired by Blitz youngsters – flashed across the stage.
5. Huishan Zhang
Huishan Zhang has developed an obsession with the style of Babe Paley – and it shows. For autumn/winter 2022, the Chinese-born, London-based designer imagined what the American socialite and her friends might wear to Truman Capote’s legendary Black and White Ball if it was now. His polite occasionwear became babewear when realised in hot pink and sunflower yellow, while his textural mash-up of denim, crystals and marabou ensured the Huishan Zhang customer will be turning heads next season.
6. Almeida
Marques’Almeida presented a short film to mark the launch of its M’AKERS project – designed to champion and preserve local artisanship in the brand’s home country, Portugal. “We really want to focus our future on channelling our energy into opening the space for meaningful change,” co-founder Marta Marques explains. “To connect, engage and empower our communities has always been [our] real drive forward.” From intricate embroidery to traditional patchworking techniques, craft is a theme that runs through the brand’s autumn/winter 2022 collection.
7. Daniel Fletcher
Daniel Fletcher delivered his most personal collection to date: an ode to his father, who passed away at the end of last year. The British designer delved into his own archive of signatures to create a concoction of tailored silk suits, denim separates and expertly cut wool outerwear that all had a ’70s feel to it. The collection was a mixture of men’s and women’s looks in a predominantly dark palette with snippets of scarlet, blues and chocolate throughout. A standout feature came via a Manchester United red and white chunky scarf knitted for the designer by British Olympian Tom Daley.
8. Saul Nash
Saul Nash drew inspiration for autumn/winter 2022 from his memories growing up in an Afro-Caribbean household in London, but through a spiritual lens. As is customary, the designer and choreographer devised functional outfits such as tracksuits, fitted pants, and padded parka jackets with ease of movement in mind. Knitwear was also introduced by him. What about the color scheme? "The colors utilized throughout are a blend of the Guyanese flag," says the designer.
9. Eudon Choi
Eudon Choi channeled his passion for Michelangelo Antonioni's 1964 film Red Desert (about a young woman who feels ostracized by the industrial world and craves freedom) into a swinging '60s collection made using ecological materials. His wearable outfits are motivated by his "optimism for the future are infused with planet-friendly materials, such as ethically sourced cashmere, recycled synthetic fibres and eco-friendly viscose.
10. Stefan Cooke
Life and work partners For their current collection, Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt concentrated on fabric innovation, including slashed and inverted pleating, trompe l'oeil corded denim, and herringbone felted wool infused with tiny cuvettes in the weaving process. "We went back to our favorite costume archives and discovered controlled flourishes in silhouette, as well as a refined DIY credo for knitwear and washed-out accessories," Cooke said of the season's inspiration.
