London's pub scene, long synonymous with hearty, comforting classics, is undergoing a vibrant culinary evolution, as revealed by Deputy Food Editor Hannah Evans of The Times Life & Style, who recently embarked on an epicurean adventure with legendary pie maker Nokx Majozi from Rosewood Pyram. Their journey through three distinct London establishments unveiled a diverse landscape of pub grub, proving that while tradition holds its charm, innovation is equally, if not more, enticing.
The expedition began at The Audley, a quintessential London pub exuding an "old school boozer feel" with traditional fare. Nokx, celebrated for her pies, emphasized that for her, pub grub always evokes classic and comforting food. Here, the duo sampled a Scotch egg, a dish Hannah initially believed to be Scottish but learned originated in England.
Its perfectly golden and crispy exterior was a testament to a well-executed classic, creating a satisfying "shattering" sensation upon biting. The highlight, however, was The Audley's chicken, ham, and meat pie. Nokx, the "pie queen" as Hannah affectionately called her, shared his secrets to a perfect pie: an inviting, crispy pastry and a moist mixture inside. She stressed the importance of moisture, noting that a dry filling "wouldn't fail" to disappoint. The pie at The Audley was "spot on," moist and comforting, a dish that pairs perfectly with a pint, epitomizing the ideal traditional pub experience.
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Their culinary exploration took an exciting turn at The Tamil Prince, a pub offering an unexpected and non-traditional experience: Indian food. Nokx described it as one of his favorite pubs, and Hannah expressed her excitement, noting everyone she knew had raved about it. The most visually striking dish was the chana patula, deep-fried bread with chickpeas, which dramatically puffed up "like a balloon" when cooked in a bubbling pot of oil. This was served alongside a delicious chickpea curry. Another dish, a chut curry with roti, captivated with the aromatic smell of curry leaves, a scent Hannah immediately associated with a delicious meal. Nokx shared a personal connection to Indian cuisine, having grown up eating a lot of curry in Durban, South Africa, where a large Indian population had immigrated. The king prawn and curry leaf varuval further showcased the vibrant flavors, with Nokx remarking on the nostalgic aroma of curry leaves, reminiscent of the large curry leaf tree at her parents' house in South Africa. Despite the delightful spice causing a slight sweat and burning ears for Hannah, the dishes were "beautifully done" and thoroughly enjoyed, challenging the conventional idea of what pub garden dining could be.
The final stop brought them to The Punchbowl, where a blend of traditional and refined offerings awaited. The meal began with confit garlic, a "delicious" and "perfect way to start your meal". Next was the rabbit, a dish close to Nokx's heart as her grandfather had a rabbit farm, making it a childhood favorite with a "little French twist". Hannah praised its "lovely mussel sauce," imagining how wonderful it would have been to be raised on such a dish. The meal concluded with a highly anticipated dessert: melons. These aren't just any pastries; they are so famous that people specifically walk in to take them away. Best dipped in the accompanying lemon curd, these soft, fluffy delights with a delicate crust around the edge were so exceptional that Hannah declared she would "travel across London for these".
Reflecting on their journey, Hannah marveled at the three completely different pubs, each brilliant and offering fare far beyond what one might expect from "pub food". The culinary tour had taken them "all the way around the world," from England to India and France, all within London's diverse pub landscape. This expedition with Nokx Majozi clearly demonstrated that London's pub food scene is not just about tradition, but a dynamic and exciting tapestry of global flavors and innovative twists on beloved classics, continually surprising and delighting palates.
