Caroline Issa, a compelling voice in the world of fashion, is delighted to take us on a journey into the heart of the earth, exploring the origins of the extraordinary gemstones central to the new Prada fine jewelry collection. This collection, dubbed "Couleur Vivante," is truly exceptional due to Prada’s unique use of color, presenting a story told through the most vibrant, saturated, and lively material available. This approach creates a new language in jewelry—a fashion language—recontextualizing luxury so that it is wearable and effortless, which is "Very Prada".
The essence of the collection lies in five key gemstones, each chosen for its natural beauty, storied past, and unique hue. What sets these gemstones apart is the way they are brought to life: Each stone is sourced as a raw crystal, fully traceable from its origin, and is left untreated to preserve its authentic color and character. From this raw state, the stones are custom-cut to design, a unique practice that ensures every jewel is unmistakably Prada.
Prada explores the vivid, citrusy, and electric green of Peridot, the only gemstone that appears in just one color from the olivine group of minerals. Its story is deeply ancient, formed deep in the earth's magma under extreme pressure and temperature, similar to diamonds, and brought to the surface by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. The ancient Egyptians found this radiant stone on the mysterious island of Zabergot and called it the gem of the sun, believing it had fallen from the heavens. Priests would even crush the stones and mix them into hot drinks, hoping to draw closer to the light and protect themselves from evil spirits.
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PRADA Fine Jewelry Couleur Vivante
In sharp contrast is Amethyst, a variety of quartz ranging from palest lavender to the deepest purple. This gemstone has long been a symbol of clarity and protection, offering the widest range of healing, positive energy, and "general good vibes" among associated stones. Legend suggests that the goddess Artemis saved a young maiden named Amethyst from the wrath of Dionysus by turning her into a statue of pure white stone; Dionysus, overcome with remorse, poured his wine over the statue, creating the brilliant violet hue. This history may explain why amethyst has always been seen as a guardian against excess and confusion.
The collection captures the warmth of sunlight through Citrine, a variety of quartz whose golden color is rare in nature, making it all the more precious. The gemstone has long been called the "merchant stone," believed to bring prosperity, joy, and abundance to its owner. Mrs. Prada and Raf Simmons harness Citrine's warmth, particularly the prized Madiraa Citrine, using its radiant energy as a focal point in their major jewelry creations. This bold, idiosyncratic approach challenges conventional ideas of beauty by pairing hues rarely seen together—such as golden ambers with blush pinks—creating pieces that are both provocative and harmonious.
Evoking the endless ocean is Aquamarine, whose name literally translates to "seawater". Roman sailors carried it as a talisman, believing it was a gift from Neptune, God of the sea, to calm waves and protect them on their journeys. It is considered a stone of tranquility, faithfulness, and reunion. Though it evokes the ocean, its journey begins deep within the mountains, growing quietly over ages. The natural crystal formation of Aquamarine takes beautifully to the emerald cut or the "Prada cut".
Finally, there is Morganite, a relatively young gemstone discovered in 1910. Its soft blush pink, caused by traces of manganese, is a "moody and dusty color" rather than a sweet bright pink, reminding Ms. Issa of faded velvet. Morganite is seen as a symbol of compassion, healing, and unconditional love, believed to have a special connection to the heart. Ms. Issa shares a favorite story from indigenous Andean traditions, where pink stones like morganite are said to be crystallized tears of the earth, formed during times of great sorrow to help humanity reconnect with gentleness and empathy.
The entire collection exemplifies Prada's unmistakable universe through the artful juxtaposition of form and color. In one beautiful Prada earring, Ms. Issa notes the soft color and rounded edges of a pear-shaped morganite are suspended from the wonderful hard lines and crystal of the aquamarine, which is cut in the Prada triangle cut. The iconic color pairings and bold re-imaginings of classic shapes create combinations that are brilliantly juxtaposed to contrast, complement, and oppose one another. This extraordinary journey, from volcanic fires and ocean legends to the depths of human emotion, ensures that in every gem, geology, mythology, and the archetypes precious to the Prada story coexist.
