Spanish brand Loewe unveiled its women's collection for Autumn Winter 2023 by Jonathan Anderson at the Château de Vincennes. The courtyard of honour of the mediaeval fortress houses an intriguing white box bearing the Loewe logo. Inside, the set is pure: everything is white from floor to ceiling. And in the middle of this purity lie a dozen super-pop coloured cubes. Purple. Blue. Green. Yellow. Compressed confetti, the work of Italian artist Lara Favaretto. In front of each one: a bodyguard. If the guests get too close, the cube could collapse. The guests speculate as to the nature of these cubes. Lena Mahfouf assumes that they will explode while the models are walking down the catwalk. Kiddy Smile sees them more as pinatas. Kacey Musgraves can't stop touching the confetti. Model Xiru Yang opened the show. A long white dress with a colourful dress printed on it. An illusion of illusions.
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An image within an image. Very Loewe by Jonathan Anderson, who was inspired by "the psychology of the idea of blur" present in Gerhard Richter's Tulpen photo. And this concept is applied to the same white dress base. One has a fur print. Another has a black dress print. A third has a trench coat print. After the blur, another notion of this fashion show is rigidity. Passage 38, Dana Smith looks like a Polly Pocket doll with her green skirt and pink top that seem to be able to stand on their own. In fact, they're made of leather, Loewe's specialty. Ditto for the baby blue shirt and candy pink dress worn by models Carla Rey and Eva Hardwick. So : Blurred. Rigidity... Drape. The flaps of the leather shirt raised by a chain imitating a handbag handle. Dresses are nothing more than fabric held together by a golden ball...or by model Canlan Wang. The ultimate drape. When it comes to accessories, this season's bags are XXXXL. Larger versions of a Loewe bag from the 1990s. After the show, the guests came to applaud the work of Jonathan Anderson. Members of the k-pop group Nmixx took a selfie with the artistic director.
