Antoine Grégory has created an exclusive collection with Theophilio, shot editorial stories with AB+DM, launched an educational fashion program with FIT, and sold out hundreds of products on the initiative's e-commerce site in the year since it was founded. But he's far from finished.
Gregory takes readers behind the scenes of Pyer Moss's first couture show, delves into Raul Lopez's recent success with Luar, and peeks behind the curtain of Hanifa's Washington, D.C. runway presentation. Bethann Hardison remembers Willi Smith and Stephen Burrows in a moving piece, while Eric Darnell Pritchard explores the many elements of Black style in America in another.
Those who are familiar with Grégory would not expect anything less than a masterpiece. The multi-hyphenate stylist and entrepreneur collaborates closely with his community to help Black people reach their full potential. "What is fashion if we don't convey the whole story?" he says in his editor's letter. What does it mean to be a part of a community if we don't include everyone? What good is a table seat if the only chair you bring is your own? There's still a lot more work to be done in terms of showcasing Black fashion designers as important historical figures in their own right."
What have you gained from your experience with the Black Fashion Fair? What do you think you're most proud of?
Antoine Grégory: I'm Antoine Grégory, and I discovered that the word "black" still frightens people. I believe that the business still views Black designers and image creators as solely capable of creating for Black people.
I believe that the industry still views Blackness as a single entity. It isn't the case.I'm glad to have developed something that proves we don't all share the same thoughts. That we have a rich and diverse past, even among ourselves.
Through Black Fashion Fair, I have prioritized my Blackness and elevated what that means.
The business says, "You know, until it's time to give them agency, we want to assist Black designers, Black image makers."
What prompted you to create a physical document regarding Black fashion?
I'd like to be able to offer us something concrete. So much Black fashion history has gone unrecorded and unpreserved. It's not allowed at libraries or museums, Volume 0 lays the framework for us to establish ourselves as our own source of information and research. We all deserve to make meaningful contributions to the fashion canon as black designers and image makers.
What criteria did you use to choose the contributors and concepts?
This was the most thrilling phase of the project for me, and all I had to do was call on the people who had backed me from the beginning. I wanted to be able to repay them in some way. We are a non-profit centered in the community. And that community has faith in me. This magazine is made up of a lot of distinct elements. It exemplifies the global diversity of the Black experience.
I wasn't content with simply taking a seat at the table. I wanted to make my own table, and it came with enough seats for all of us. This is evidence of that.
Since you started BFF, how do you think fashion has changed in terms of showcasing and supporting Black talent?
Is it true? I believe we still have a long way to go before we can say it has been accomplished. Everyone wants to be a part of black fashion, which is the new hip hop. However, they are unfamiliar with the area's history and culture. I believe what has happened is that magazines and merchants have rushed to support Black designers, which hasn't always translated into accurate representations of who they are.
And we've seen how we've been able to help Black designers not only monetarily but also with visibility. While also ensuring that they get into the correct stores and aren't just a Black brand brought in to satisfy a commitment to the "industry" that they would carry them. The playing field remains unbalanced.
What's in store for BFF in the future?
We have some great projects coming up in the future months that will help us maintain our position in the industry. With the right resources, this is merely another extension of who we can be. We've accomplished so much in just one year with nothing. This was made possible by partnering with a company like Warby Parker. It's incredible to see what we e can do when we bring other brands into our world.
