Teddy Baldassarre, in his end-of-year review, highlighted a curated list of seven smaller, micro, and independent watch brands that profoundly impressed him in 2025, noting that the watches that leave a lasting impact often come from brands he either "don't know much about" or haven't "fully dove deeper into" the brand's identity. Baldassarre focused on brands where he was able to build an intimate connection, or those that "caught me off guard" by doing unique things in design, materials, or movement perspective. The selection spans a variety of price ranges, extending from entry-level pieces up to "the high horology of the really bespoke world of watch making".
One brand that executed a dramatic shift was the Italian microbrand Echone Neutra. Known for more utilitarian styles, the brand took a "complete left turn" with the Rivenara. Baldassarre described the design as marrying the stylistic approach of the Cartier Tank with a "stealth fighter jet" in an audacious execution that defies the typical elegance associated with rectangular watches. The case is crafted from grade 5 titanium with a blasted anthracite finish, accented by polished edges and bevels. The watch’s slim 5.9 mm case height is achieved using the thin, manual-wound ETA 7001 movement. Baldassarre noted that the Rivenara is, from his understanding, "completely changing this Italian micro brand".
Another French brand, Beau Blue, impressed Baldassarre with its "more avenguard approach" to cases and hands. Their standout model features a "floating second hand that is suspended beneath by a transparent disc," creating a "mystery dial element". Baldassarre found this visual execution "very fun" and something that "creates a lot of joy," housed in a multi-layered case and powered by the French Bosch FE automatic movement.
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For exceptional value, Éthos & Co., a Hong Kong-based brand, offered a unique package under $1,000 with its Summit White Out model. This watch features a highly wearable 38mm full ceramic case with pilot DNA and utilizes the automatic 9-series Miyota movement. Baldassarre appreciated small details, such as the second hand’s reverse counterweight aligning perfectly with the circular logo at 6 o'clock, and an inset rubber blackened detail at the inner circumference of the crown.
The London-based independent brand Anom stood out due to its focus on the often-overlooked case silhouette. The A1 model projects a feeling across the room due to its triangular, pebble-like rounded profile, which was inspired by a mid-century table by furniture design legend Charlotte Perriand. Their latest model, the A1 Optical, features engraved and polished dial accents with a series of 50 offset triangles that "distort the light," raising the brand’s game yet again. Baldassarre noted that the crown is "nestled in" to maintain this soft triangular silhouette, a trade-off he can "live with" despite making the crown harder to operate.
Jumping into high independent horology, J.N. Shapiro Watches, run by Josh Shapiro in Los Angeles, impressed Baldassarre with its dedication to the George Daniels method of watchmaking—doing "everything as much as possible in one house". Shapiro’s Resurgence series showcases a multi-step, multi-level dial produced in-house. A self-taught watchmaker, Shapiro invented his own guilloché pattern, the infinity weave, which is a basket weave within a basket weave. The execution includes wheels produced in 14-karat gold and jewels sourced from a U.S. producer. Baldassarre believes this is, "as far as I know the most in-house made watch in the United States today".
Finally, Czapek, led by Rémy, impressed Baldassarre with a "scientific approach to watchmaking," blending "mathematics engineering and art". Baldassarre noted that he got to know Rémy personally this year and saw his new watch, the Any Day, which is a mechanical agenda watch introduced in a white gold case. The main feature is the ability to instantly see the day and date for the entire month. It uses a crescent moon indicator for the day of the month and radial set numerals for the day of the week, with two sets of cams working in tandem to execute the calendar functions. While simpler than Czapek’s earlier Everywhere model, which utilized the USS caliber to calculate sunrise and sunset times from "any location on the planet," the Any Day caliber C032 is still remarkable in its execution and creativity. Baldassarre emphasized that the fit, finish, and creativity of the Any Day made a lasting impact in 2025.
