Journalist and author Lindsey Tramuta, a Parisian resident for nearly 20 years, recently partnered with The MICHELIN Guide to explore the shifting landscape of the city's dining scene, specifically focusing on the evolution from the traditional bistro to the contemporary neo-bistro movement. This two-day journey blended hearty, classic French cuisine with modern culinary creativity and highlighted hidden cultural treasures often overlooked by tourists.
Tramuta began her exploration with coffee at Maison Fur, a charming spot in Sanjan de Pre, the city’s historic literary heart, where the owners have preserved the walls of books from its former life as a bookstore. Following this quiet start, she defined the classic bistro, noting that it arrived in Paris in the 19th century with migration from the French provinces. Unlike the large brasserie, the bistro is easily identified by its "smaller and cozier dining rooms" and a menu featuring "slow cooked and very hearty dishes," quickly becoming part of the city's DNA.
A key stop on the journey was Allard, a Michelin-selected restaurant opened in 1932 that exemplifies the traditional bistro. Although it lacks a star or Bib Gourmand distinction, Allard is "recommended by Michelin inspectors for the quality of its cooking". Here, the focus is on comforting classics such as escargots and duck foie gras, or the signature duckling with bright olives. Tramuta noted that since Alain Ducasse took over in 2013, everything has gained a "lighter touch". The kitchen is led by Chef Lisa De, who carries on the tradition of the bistro's founder, Mart.
Paris: Authentic Bistros and Hidden Gems
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Following this traditional meal, Tramuta took a "digestive walk" to the Musée Zadkine, located in the quiet Square Finberg. She explained her personal preference for these intimate house museums because they are "far from the crowds of the Louv" and offer a "much slower calmer experience".
The second half of the exploration focused on bistronomy, the movement where chefs apply French technique while making the atmosphere and dishes more relaxed and creative. The dinner reservation was at Ken, which "looks like a bistro" and "feels like a bistro but it's been reinvented". Here, Chef Battiste Bordi elevates simple, classic bistro starters through his work with sauces, flavor pairings, and textures. For dessert, the clafoutis was modified to include plums instead of sour cherries and served with almond cardamom ice cream, which Tramuta found "very warm and a little bit spicy".
The following day started with a stay at Maison P, one of the many hotels recognized with a Michelin Key (the hotel equivalent of a star), which is inspired by the world of Marcel Proust and features a "super romantic" atmosphere. Lunch was at Dandelion in the 20th arrondissement, a spot that feels like a "little village in the big city". Dandelion is classified as a "neo-bistro," continuing the bistronomy movement with a menu that is relaxed and creative.
The final dinner of the two-day adventure was at Ludisnov Sanro, the first solo restaurant from French Tunisian chef Pieru. The chef believes in cooking simply but with an "impressive level of technique and a lot of layered flavors". Chef Pieru dramatically reinterpreted the old-school dish Lièvre à la Royale—traditionally made with hare—by using slow-cooked beef chalk coated in an earthy sauce made from jute mallow leaves, an ingredient used in mulûkhîyah, a dish close to the chef’s heart. The menu at Ludisnov Sanro changes daily, often as frequently as regular guests visit.
Throughout the journey, Tramuta highlighted other cultural stops, including the Place des Vosges, one of Paris's oldest planned squares, and the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, a museum that explores the relationship between humans and the living world. Ultimately, Lindsey Tramuta confirmed that after all her years in the city, she still loves "how Paris keeps surprising me," finding that this exploration with The MICHELIN Guide was the perfect way to take in "the old and new that make the city so exciting and so meaningful".
